THE JURY IS in: Consumers value sustainability. This should be heeded by all optical businesses, but especially those who have their own brand and are looking to develop frames in more responsible materials. Assessing which materials genuinely meet eco-friendly criteria can be a daunting task, but help is at hand in the form of the bow Responsible Materials Index for Eyewear developed by Hong Kong-based bbase Design Group.
THE IDEA
Several years ago, bbase surveyed the vast array of “sustainable” materials out there, looking to make sense of what would work best from a commercial and design perspective, as well as an environmental one. According to communications director Zoe Pena, “The research…was initially to aid in communicating the value of these materials internally to our teams. As we further distilled our process, it progressed to being a tool to help … our clients.” That tool is now available to the public in the form of the bow Index, which allows the attributes of a sustainable material to be easily visualized across several categories, helping eyewear prosfessionals determine the best option for their product and support their commitment to sustainability.
Pena says the aim is to guide eyewear businesses in the application of certified bio and recycled materials, cutting through “greenwashing” and sharing bbase’s valuable, practical insights.
The index allows the attributes of a sustainable material to be easily visualized across several categories.
THE EXECUTION
The index (the name “bow” was inspired by a quote from aikido founder Morihei Ueshiba: “When you bow deeply to the universe, it bows back…”) covers nearly a dozen recycled and biodegradable materials, each evaluated according to seven criteria — Sustainable Certifications, Product Lifespan, DEP Content, BPA Content, Recycled Material Content, Biodegradability, and Material Efficiency & Performance. According to bbase’s website, “The scoring matrix is a result of over a year’s worth of research and development of our methodology, material criteria and parameters.”
Along with a visual representation of each material’s performance, the interactive index offers details on the ecological pros and cons of each material, along with information on how each performs when used to create eyeglass frames. The index’s entry on Recycled PET, for example, explains that it is “readily recycled under the resin identification code 1,” but adds that it “has styling limitations” and “some finishes will render [it] unrecyclable.” Even a quick glance at the index shows the strong performance of a material like Renew acetate (chemical) versus something like regular Tritan.
Interested readers can check out the index and investigate materials they’re interested in at thebowindex.com.
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THE REWARDS
For bbase, developing the bow Index has been a valuable exercise in learning best practices for these materials. “In 2023 alone, over 66% of bbase produced eyewear was developed using bow materials. We’re very proud of that achievement,” says Pena.
As for the industry, bbase believes it has started important conversations when it comes to responsible sourcing of materials and the brand-supplier relationship, she says.
Watch a brief video about the bow Index produced by bbase below.
Do It Yourself: Boost Your
Green Credentials
- DIVE IN. Go to thebowindex.com and click through the interactive display to learn about the materials you may be carrying in your dispensary.
- LOOK AROUND. Eyewear is now being made from unconventional sustainable materials like cork, bamboo and vegetal resin. Check them out, too!
- CHOOSE WISELY. Support brands like bbase, SALT. Optics, Lacoste and ESPRIT that are leading the way in material sustainability.
- GET IT IN WRITING. Seek out certifications like FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or B Corp when sourcing frames.
- SELLING POINT. Craft a story for patients who show interest in sustainable eyewear, detailing materials and explaining the long-term benefits for the planet.
